模块五 · 理论Module 5 · Theory
睫毛与眉毛护理Lash & Brow Services
Lash & Brow Services睫毛与眉毛护理
对应单元 SHBBFAS004 · SHBBMUP008
提供睫毛和眉毛服务 · 睫毛嫁接 Unit SHBBFAS004 · SHBBMUP008
Provide lash and brow services · Apply eyelash extensions
提供睫毛和眉毛服务 · 睫毛嫁接 Unit SHBBFAS004 · SHBBMUP008
Provide lash and brow services · Apply eyelash extensions
学习目标Learning Outcomes
Learning Outcomes学习目标
完成本模块后，你应该能够：By the end of this module you will be able to:
- 说出眼周解剖结构与睫毛的生长周期Describe the anatomy around the eye and the lash growth cycle
- 正确执行染色前的斑贴测试并说明其法律与安全意义Carry out a patch test before tinting and explain why it is legally and clinically essential
- 安全完成睫毛与眉毛染色，并处理染剂入眼的紧急情况Tint lashes and brows safely and manage tint entering the eye
- 使用眉形设计三点定位法为不同脸型设计眉形Map brows using the three-point method and adapt to different face shapes
- 比较蜡、镊、线三种修眉方式的适用情形Compare waxing, tweezing and threading for brow shaping
- 说明睫毛翘翘的原理与安全时间控制Explain how a lash lift works and why timing is critical
- 区分经典嫁接与浓密嫁接，并说明隔离与留存率的关系Distinguish classic from volume extensions and explain isolation and retention
- 识别眼部服务的禁忌症并知道何时转介Identify contraindications for eye services and know when to refer
第一部分 · 眼周解剖与睫毛周期Part One · Eye Anatomy & the Lash Cycle
Part One · Eye Anatomy & the Lash Cycle第一部分 · 眼周解剖与睫毛周期
眼睛是全身最脆弱、也是最容易引发投诉与索赔的部位。做眼部服务，技术之外，安全意识永远排第一。The eye is the most delicate area you will ever work on and the one most likely to generate a complaint or a claim. In eye services, safety awareness comes before technique.
1.1 你需要认识的结构1.1 The structures you need to know
| 结构Structure | English中文 | 为什么重要Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 睑缘Lash line | Lash line / lid margin睑缘 | 睫毛生长处，也是胶水与染剂绝不可接触的边界Where lashes emerge, and the line adhesive and tint must never cross |
| 睑板腺Meibomian glands | Meibomian glands睑板腺 | 开口于睑缘，分泌油脂稳定泪膜；堵塞会导致干眼与麦粒肿Open at the lid margin and secrete oil to stabilise the tear film. Blockage causes dry eye and styes. |
| 结膜Conjunctiva | Conjunctiva结膜 | 覆盖眼白与眼睑内侧的黏膜，化学物质接触即刺痛发红The membrane over the white of the eye and inner lid. Any chemical contact stings and reddens immediately. |
| 角膜Cornea | Cornea角膜 | 透明前表面，一旦化学灼伤可能造成永久视力损伤The clear front surface. A chemical burn here can permanently damage vision. |
| 眼轮匝肌Orbicularis oculi | Orbicularis oculi眼轮匝肌 | 环绕眼周的闭眼肌，眉部按摩与产品涂抹须顺其走向The ring muscle that closes the eye. Work with its direction when massaging or applying product. |
| 眉毛Eyebrow | Eyebrow眉毛 | 导流汗水、保护眼睛，也是面部表情与比例的核心Diverts sweat and protects the eye, and anchors facial proportion and expression |
1.2 睫毛的生长周期1.2 The lash growth cycle
睫毛与头发一样有生长期、退行期、休止期，但周期短得多 —— 整个循环约 60–90 天，人平均每天自然脱落 2–5 根睫毛。Lashes cycle through anagen, catagen and telogen just like scalp hair, but far faster. The full cycle takes about 60 to 90 days, and a person naturally sheds two to five lashes a day.
| 周期Phase | 时长与占比Duration and proportion | 对服务的意义What it means for services |
|---|---|---|
| 生长期 AnagenAnagen | 约 4–10 周，约占 40%Four to ten weeks, about 40% of lashes | 睫毛短且脆弱，嫁接过重的假睫毛会造成损伤These lashes are short and fragile. Attaching a heavy extension damages them. |
| 退行期 CatagenCatagen | 约 2–3 周，约占 15%Two to three weeks, about 15% | 停止生长，长度固定Growth stops and the length is fixed |
| 休止期 TelogenTelogen | 约 4–9 周，约占 45%Four to nine weeks, about 45% | 随时可能脱落 —— 这是嫁接需要每 2–3 周补做的原因Ready to shed at any time, which is why extensions need infills every two to three weeks |
临床关联 In the clinic 客户抱怨「嫁接后掉得很快」时，先解释自然脱落规律：每天掉 2–5 根是正常的，两周后看起来稀疏并不代表你做坏了。把这一点在咨询时就说清楚，比事后解释有效十倍。When a client says her extensions dropped fast, explain the natural shed first: losing two to five lashes a day is normal, so looking sparse after two weeks does not mean the set failed. Saying this at consultation works ten times better than explaining it afterwards.
第二部分 · 斑贴测试与安全Part Two · Patch Testing & Safety
Part Two · Patch Testing & Safety第二部分 · 斑贴测试与安全
这一节是整个模块最重要的部分。眼部染色与嫁接引发的过敏反应可能非常严重，而斑贴测试是唯一的防线，也是保险公司认可的免责依据。This is the most important section in the module. Allergic reactions to eye tinting and adhesives can be severe, and the patch test is your only line of defence — and the one your insurer will look for.
2.1 什么时候必须做斑贴测试2.1 When a patch test is mandatory
- 所有首次做睫毛或眉毛染色的客户Every client having a lash or brow tint for the first time
- 所有首次做睫毛嫁接或睫毛翘翘的客户Every client having lash extensions or a lash lift for the first time
- 更换染剂、胶水或药水品牌之后Whenever you change the brand of tint, adhesive or lotion
- 距离上次服务超过 6 个月的老客户Any returning client whose last service was more than six months ago
- 客户近期出现过任何过敏反应或开始新的药物治疗Any client who has had a recent allergic reaction or started new medication
2.2 怎么做2.2 How to do it
在耳后或前臂内侧涂抹少量产品，自然风干，保留 24–48 小时后观察。出现红、痒、肿、灼热、水疱中的任何一项，即为阳性反应，不可施作。测试结果必须书面记录并由客户签字确认。Apply a small amount behind the ear or on the inner forearm, let it dry naturally, and review at 24 to 48 hours. Redness, itching, swelling, burning or blistering is a positive result — do not proceed. Record the outcome in writing and have the client sign it.
绝不可以妥协的一点 The one thing you never bend on 客户说「我以前做过都没事，不用测了」—— 过敏可以在任何一次接触后突然出现，与之前做过多少次无关。染发剂中的 PPD 类成分是最常见的严重过敏原之一，严重时可导致眼睑肿胀闭合甚至过敏性休克。没有做斑贴测试就施作，一旦出事，你的保险很可能不予赔付。A client will say she has had it before and does not need testing. Sensitisation can appear suddenly at any exposure, regardless of how many times she has had it done. PPD-type ingredients in tint are among the most common serious allergens, and a bad reaction can swell the lids shut or trigger anaphylaxis. If you treat without a patch test and something goes wrong, your insurer may well decline the claim.
2.3 染剂入眼的紧急处理2.3 If tint gets into the eye
- 立即停止操作，用大量生理盐水或洗眼液持续冲洗至少 15 分钟Stop immediately and flush with saline or eyewash continuously for at least 15 minutes
- 冲洗时让客户转动眼球，确保上下穹窿都被冲到Ask her to move her eye around so the upper and lower fornices are flushed
- 不要用力揉眼，不要用普通自来水以外的任何液体替代生理盐水Do not let her rub the eye, and do not substitute anything other than saline or clean water
- 冲洗后若仍有疼痛、视力模糊或明显发红，立即送医If pain, blurred vision or marked redness persists after flushing, seek medical care immediately
- 完整填写事故记录，并在 24 小时内跟进客户情况Complete an incident report in full and follow up within 24 hours
2.4 眼部服务的禁忌症2.4 Contraindications for eye services
| 情况Condition | 处理Action |
|---|---|
| 结膜炎、麦粒肿、睑缘炎等眼部感染Conjunctivitis, stye, blepharitis or any eye infection | 绝对禁忌，转介医生，痊愈后方可预约Absolute. Refer and rebook only once resolved. |
| 眼周开放性伤口、湿疹、银屑病Open wounds, eczema or psoriasis around the eye | 绝对禁忌Absolute |
| 近期眼科手术（含激光矫视）Recent eye surgery, including laser vision correction | 须眼科医生书面许可，通常至少 6 个月Requires written clearance, usually after at least six months |
| 斑贴测试阳性A positive patch test | 绝对禁忌，不可「减量尝试」Absolute. Never try a smaller amount. |
| 干眼症、正在使用眼药水Dry eye, or current eye drops | 相对禁忌，建议先咨询医生Relative. Suggest she check with her doctor first. |
| 戴隐形眼镜Contact lenses | 施作前必须摘除Must be removed before the service |
| 化疗期间或近期停止During or recently after chemotherapy | 睫毛极脆弱，须医生许可且避免嫁接Lashes are extremely fragile. Get clearance and avoid extensions. |
第三部分 · 眉形设计与修眉Part Three · Brow Design & Shaping
Part Three · Brow Design & Shaping第三部分 · 眉形设计与修眉
3.1 三点定位法3.1 The three-point mapping method
用一支眉笔或量尺，从鼻翼出发定出三个点。这是全世界通用的基础方法，掌握之后你就不会「越修越细」。Using a brow pencil or ruler, work from the side of the nostril to find three points. This is the universal starting method, and once you have it you will stop over-thinning brows.
| 点位Point | 怎么定How to find it | 作用What it sets |
|---|---|---|
| 眉头Start | 从鼻翼垂直向上Straight up from the side of the nostril | 决定两眉间距，太窄显凶、太宽显散Sets the gap between brows. Too narrow looks harsh, too wide looks vague. |
| 眉峰Arch | 从鼻翼经过瞳孔外缘延伸From the nostril through the outer edge of the iris | 决定提拉感与眼神，位置太靠内会显惊讶Sets the lift and the expression. Too far in and she looks surprised. |
| 眉尾End | 从鼻翼经过外眼角延伸From the nostril through the outer corner of the eye | 眉尾不应低于眉头水平线，否则显下垂The tail should not sit below the level of the start, or the face reads as drooping |
3.2 脸型与眉形3.2 Face shape and brow shape
- 圆脸 —— 明显的高眉峰，增加纵向线条感Round — a defined higher arch adds vertical length
- 方脸 —— 柔和的弧形眉，缓和下颌角的硬朗线条Square — a softer curve balances a strong jawline
- 长脸 —— 平直眉，横向拉宽视觉比例Long — a flatter brow widens the face visually
- 心形脸 —— 圆润带轻微弧度，避免过于锐利Heart — a rounded gentle arch, nothing too sharp
- 永远优先顺应客户天生的骨骼与毛流，不要硬套流行眉形Always work with her natural bone structure and hair growth before applying any trend shape
3.3 三种修眉方式3.3 Three ways to shape
| 方式Method | 优点Strengths | 注意Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| 蜡Waxing | 快速、边缘干净，适合毛量多的客户Fast with a clean edge, good for dense brows | 眼周皮肤薄，蜡温须更低；用酸类或 A 醇者禁用Skin here is thin so wax must be cooler. Not for clients using acids or retinoids. |
| 镊子Tweezing | 最精准，可逐根控制形状The most precise — you control every hair | 慢；须顺毛流方向拔除，避免断毛与内生Slow. Pull in the direction of growth to avoid breakage and ingrowns. |
| 线面Threading | 不接触皮肤，适合敏感肌与 A 酸使用者Nothing touches the skin, so it suits sensitive skin and retinoid users | 技术门槛高，需要大量练习Technically demanding and needs a lot of practice |
永远记住 Always remember 修眉宁少勿多。拔掉的毛可能需要 6–8 周才长回来，有些甚至因为反复拔除而永久不再生长。每修一小段就退后一步、双眼对比一次 —— 客户看的是整体对称，不是单边完美。Under-shape rather than over-shape. A hair takes six to eight weeks to return, and some never do after years of plucking. Step back and compare both sides after every small section — clients judge symmetry, not one perfect brow.
第四部分 · 染色、翘翘与嫁接Part Four · Tinting, Lifting & Extensions
Part Four · Tinting, Lifting & Extensions第四部分 · 染色、翘翘与嫁接
4.1 睫毛与眉毛染色4.1 Lash and brow tinting
专业染剂与显影剂（通常为低浓度过氧化氢）混合后氧化显色。停留时间通常为 5–10 分钟，具体按产品说明 —— 时间过长不会让颜色「更牢」，只会增加刺激风险。Professional tint is mixed with a developer, usually a low-strength hydrogen peroxide, and oxidises to develop colour. Processing time is generally five to ten minutes, always per the manufacturer. Leaving it longer does not make the colour last — it only increases the risk of irritation.
- 必须使用眼部专用染剂，绝对不可使用普通染发剂Use eye-specific tint only. Never use hair colour near the eye.
- 上下睫毛之间必须垫隔离纸，防止上下睫毛粘连与染剂入眼Place protective pads between the upper and lower lashes to stop them sticking together and to keep tint out of the eye
- 眼周涂抹凡士林保护皮肤，避免染到皮肤留色Barrier the surrounding skin with petroleum jelly so the skin does not stain
- 全程客户闭眼，不可交谈或移动The client keeps her eyes closed throughout and does not talk or move
- 染色维持约 4–6 周，随睫毛自然更新而淡去Tint lasts about four to six weeks and fades as the lashes turn over
4.2 睫毛翘翘（Lash Lift）4.2 Lash lift
原理与烫发相同：第一剂软化睫毛的二硫键，让睫毛在硅胶垫上定型；第二剂重新固定键结，锁住卷翘。整个效果维持约 6–8 周。The chemistry is the same as a perm. The first lotion softens the disulphide bonds so the lashes take the shape of the silicone shield, and the second re-forms those bonds to lock the curl. It lasts about six to eight weeks.
| 要点Point | 说明Detail |
|---|---|
| 时间控制Timing | 细软睫毛时间短，粗硬睫毛时间长；超时会导致睫毛断裂、发脆、卷曲变形Fine lashes need less time, coarse lashes more. Overprocessing leaves lashes brittle, broken or kinked. |
| 硅胶垫尺寸Shield size | 尺寸越小卷度越大；应按睫毛长度而非客户喜好选择Smaller shields give more curl. Choose by lash length, not by what the client fancies. |
| 术后 24 小时First 24 hours | 不碰水、不蒸脸、不化眼妆、不揉眼No water, steam, eye make-up or rubbing |
| 间隔Interval | 至少 6–8 周才可重做，过频会严重损伤睫毛Wait at least six to eight weeks. Doing it more often seriously damages the lashes. |
4.3 睫毛嫁接4.3 Lash extensions
| 经典嫁接 ClassicClassic | 浓密嫁接 VolumeVolume | |
|---|---|---|
| 比例Ratio | 一根真睫毛贴一根假睫毛（1:1）One extension to one natural lash | 一根真睫毛贴一个 2–6 根的扇形A handmade fan of two to six fine lashes on one natural lash |
| 效果Look | 自然、根根分明Natural and defined | 浓密、蓬松Fuller and softer |
| 重量要求Weight | 不超过真睫毛可承受的重量Never more than the natural lash can carry | 扇形必须用更细的直径，总重量不可超标Fans must use finer diameters so total weight stays within limits |
- 隔离（isolation）是嫁接的核心技术 —— 每一根假睫毛只能贴在一根独立的真睫毛上Isolation is the core skill. Each extension goes onto one single isolated natural lash.
- 粘连（stickies）会导致真睫毛被强行拉扯脱落，造成「牵引性脱发」，是嫁接最常见的损伤Stickies pull the natural lash out as it grows, causing traction damage — the most common injury from extensions
- 假睫毛不可贴到睑缘，须距离皮肤约 0.5–1 毫米Extensions never touch the lid margin. Leave about 0.5 to 1 mm of clearance from the skin.
- 胶水成分为氰基丙烯酸酯（cyanoacrylate），是常见致敏原，必须斑贴测试The adhesive is cyanoacrylate, a well-known sensitiser. Patch test without exception.
- 留存率受油脂、摩擦、湿度、睫毛周期影响，建议每 2–3 周补做Retention depends on oil, friction, humidity and the lash cycle. Infills every two to three weeks.
- 术后 24–48 小时避免碰水与蒸汽，日常用无油卸妆产品，不使用睫毛夹No water or steam for 24 to 48 hours, oil-free products afterwards, and never use a lash curler
临床关联 In the clinic 客户抱怨「嫁接把我的睫毛做坏了」，绝大多数情况下真正的原因是粘连、重量超标，或客户自己揉眼、拉扯拆除。术前把这三点讲清楚并写进同意书，能替你挡掉大部分纠纷。When a client says extensions ruined her lashes, the real cause is almost always stickies, excess weight, or her own rubbing and pulling them off. Explain those three things beforehand and put them in the consent form — it will head off most disputes.
理论测验Knowledge Check
Knowledge Check · 15 questions理论测验 · 15 题
共 15 题，每题一个正确答案。答对 12 题（80%）以上为通过。提交后会显示答案与解析。Fifteen questions, one correct answer each. Twelve correct is a pass. Answers and explanations appear after you submit.
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